Lying between Martinique and Guadeloupe, Dominica has long been in the forefront of ecotourism. Rain forest wraps around 4,000-foot slumbering volcanoes, and some of the healthiest coral reefs in the world sit offshore. Hikers and snorkelers love this Caribbean island that’s a delightful throwback to gentler times, a place without megaresorts, nightlife, and mass tourism.

Hiking on Dominica can be challenging made harder by frequent bursts of rain. But the plant life, the waterfalls, the hot springs, and the daily rainbows make it more than worthwhile, as does the chance of spotting the native Sisserou parrot.

Here’s how to make the most of your time in port on the “Nature Island”: